The Return of ‘Twin Peaks’ Has Us All Nostalgic For Its 90s Fashion

Twin Peaks, the show, may have premiered in 1990, but Twin Peaks, the fictional town at the center of it, was a place out of sync with the times. It’s a place of strange traditions and layers of secrecy, a seemingly “innocent” small American town forced to reckon with its dark side after the murder of Laura Palmer and the arrival of FBI agent Dale Cooper, which is where season one kicks off. To that end, the aesthetic of the town is very much from the 1950s—not as they were but as they tried to be. Pleated skirts for the schoolgirls, leather jackets for the bad boys, everyone in a tie all the time. Like creator David Lynch’s previous work Blue Velvet, Twin Peaks was about exposing the lie of small-town innocence, so the look of the series, especially the costumes, harkened back to that “purer” time, just like Laura Palmer presented herself as the picture of perfection, while leading a secret double life of, well, sex and drugs (and, possibly, rock ’n’ roll).

The fifties-cum-nineties look was especially eye-catching when the show first premiered because, in the age before peak prestige TV, Twin Peaks was one of just a few cool-looking shows on. This was long before directing auteurs were flocking to limited series on HBO and AMC, long before people were streaming episodes onto high-definition devices and breaking them down frame-by-frame on blogs. There were definitely stylish shows, but it wasn’t like it is now, when having an item featured on a show can cause it to sell out almost overnight and there are ongoing blogs devoted to just one show’s costumes. In 1990 the distinctive, moody Twin Peaks and the not-basic wardrobe of its characters became something of a cult phenomenon. And now that it’s coming back (to Showtime, on May 21), we figured it would be a good time to add a few Twin Peaks–y touches to our wardrobes (and yours). With a modern twist, of course!

Look #1: Updated Menswear

Button-downs and jackets. — PHOTO: ABC

Button-downs and jackets

Oversize menswear in a strong, boxy cut is so eighties, but it worked for the adult women of Twin Peaks—like Josie Packard and Lucy Moran, played by Joan Chen and Kimmy Robertson, respectively—setting them apart from the schoolgirls following their boyfriends around in the woods. Still, we recommend toning down the silhouette unless you really want to look like Working Girl. Try a button-down like the Gap Linen Oversize Boyfriend Shirt ($60) in blue or black…

…with the J.Crew Regent Blazer ($198) in a neutral or earth tone…

…and the Comme des Garçons Houndstooth Wool Wide-Leg Trousers ($740).

Alternately, try the ‘Le Pantalon Santon’ by Jacquemus ($615):

Look #2: The Audrey Horne Fitted Sweater

Audrey, played by Sherilyn Fenn, is a high school wannabe femme fatale, throwing herself into situations (and at men) and always ending up in over her head. She was also, in many ways, one of the most fun teens on the show, not as wracked with angst and guilt over Laura’s death as some of the others. She danced and sighed and smoked in the bathroom! Audrey was livin’! Her signature was her black-and-white saddle shoes (we did find a pair on Zappos for you!), but if you’re fixing to cuddle up next to the Agent Cooper in your life, you’re going to want a pretty, fuzzy, tight little sweater. All the better to sigh in. Our picks:

The RedValentino Metallic Ribbed-Knit Sweater ($450):

The Blair Stitched Pullover from Anthropologie ($98):

The Maison Margiela Ribbed Wool Sweater ($740):

The Intarsia Cotton Sweater by Miu Miu ($530):

Look #3: Plaid Skirts

Good morning, Diane, it’s the fashion police reporting a suspicious lack of plaid in your closet. (If you don’t know who Diane is, you need to watch the show, stat.) Slightly depressed fifties schoolgirl is truly the lewk of the moody young women of the series (see Audrey again, above left, and Maddy Ferguson, played by Sheryl Lee, above right), and nothing says “I’m preppy, but I have secrets” quite like plaid skirts:

The Prada Checked Jacquard-knit Wrap Skirt ($1,910):

The Plaid Wrap Miniskirt from Topshop ($40):

The Plaid Wool Skirt by Carven ($350):

And the Urban Renewal Remade A-Line Plaid Skirt from Urban Outfitters ($20):

Look #3: Silk Slip

What else on earth could you wear to communicate femininity, vulnerability, and sexual maturity? You’re not some trollop at One Eyed Jack’s (again, watch the show, it’s all on Netflix and Amazon—what are you waiting for?) done up in lace and bows; you’re a silk-negligee kinda gal:

Like the Gulia Short Slip in Ivory by Agent Provocateur ($1,185):

Or the Charmeuse Chemise by Oscar de la Renta ($64):

Or the Lace-trim Satin Slip from Victoria’s Secret ($42):

Look #4: The Dale Cooper

The ostensible Twin Peaks protagonist, Special Agent Dale Cooper of the FBI (Kyle MacLachlan), sent to Twin Peaks after the discovery of Laura Palmer’s body. He’s smart with good instincts and preternaturally calm, even when…OK, no spoilers, but a lot happens to and around him. Agent Cooper’s finest quality may be his ability to take joy in the little things in life, whether it be a cup of coffee, a slice of pie, or a daily present to himself. So maybe you’ll gift yourself something today and take a style cue from Agent Cooper; all you need (assuming you have a perfectly white shirt and a black suit) is a khaki overcoat and a turquoise pinky ring:

The Khaki Cocoon Trench at Anthropologie ($208):

A Faceted Turquoise & Blue Topaz Cushion Ring designed by Stephen Dweck ($550):

Look #5: Fall!

Alliances are always changing in Twin Peaks, but one thing that remains the same day after day is the weather: blustery and overcast. Naturally, everyone has a deep wardrobe of chunky knits, wool, turtlenecks, tights, leather footwear…basically, lots of fall layers. All the better to represent the layers of character in each of the characters and to provide a contrast with moments of (partial) nudity. So stock up already!

Try something sporty and sturdy like the France Varsity Jacket at Opening Ceremony ($525):